A grown-up gourmand built on date cake: myrrh, Sri Lankan cinnamon and a sweets accord over date, praline and lily, closing on condensed milk, bourbon vanilla and nutmeg. David Seth Moltz set it in the New York of the early 2000s — a note left on the table, a slice of dark malty cake, a glass of golden milk — and D.S. & Durga gave it the house's peach concrete box.
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