Three birds from Mendittorosa, and Nicolaï lets Patchouli Spirit out of Harrods

Three extraits from Mendittorosa at once, the house best known for Le Mat. Freedom is its fourth collection after Odori d'Anima, Talismans and Daymon — Cristiano Canali composing on Stefania Squeglia's concept, 25 per cent, €300 for 100 ml on the house's shop since 7 September. Asoral is a rose built on the Lani rose, the Crimean variety only one house still extracts; Outopia sets Namibian myrrh, frankincense and opoponax against modern molecules; Re-Evolution is red algae, Gayo patchouli and black pepper. Each bottle carries a small ceramic bird coloured to its scent — silver, gold, copper.

Patchouli Spirit is not new — Harrods has had it since February 2025 — but it is new to everyone else. Nicolaï showed it at Esxence in June as a main-collection fragrance and has sold it on its own site since 1 September: €90, €210 and €370 for 30, 100 and 250 ml, with a 7.5 ml given away with every 100 ml until 20 October. Patricia de Nicolaï's brief to herself was that Patchouli Intense, her 2009 one, was never patchouli-centric enough; this one keeps the material in the middle and warms it with rose, cinnamon, amber and vanilla until it reads liqueur-like rather than earthy. The pyramid has changed on the way out of Harrods, too — the lavender the store listed is gone, and orange, angelica and mandarin open it now.

Tears is Tremaine Emory's Denim Tears translated into scent by Paul Guerlain for Comme des Garçons Parfums: the smell of cotton, rural Georgia just after rain, heat coming off red clay. Galbanum and sage over iris and a solar rose, on vetiver, hay and cypriol — a musk floral in the house's own terms. Dover Street Market London had the 50 ml on sale on 18 September at £135; the US price is $180, Japan gets a pre-sale first and general release on 2 October.

And Althaïr Exclusif, Parfums de Marly's deeper cut of Althaïr, on the house's shop since 1 September at €275 for 75 ml and €325 for 125 ml. Bourbon vanilla underneath, amaretto and saffron on top, praline and cinnamon between them; Hamid Merati-Kashani composed it, which the house's page leaves unsaid and Fragrantica does not. A coffret of two 5 ml sprays, the original and the Exclusif, comes with a purchase.

Twenty-four more arrivals below, three on the Watch, and four price and stock moves.