Dusita turns ten on a cup of mocha, and Francesca Bianchi can't sleep

This week belongs to two perfumers who compose for their own houses, and both went back into their own past for what they are launching now: one to the mocha that waited for her after school, the other to the nights she spent composing while everyone else slept. Both bottles ship in October.

Mocha Absolu is Dusita's tenth-anniversary scent. Pissara Umavijani built it from coming home from school to hot mocha and Thai tea while her father, the poet Montri Umavijani, wrote at his desk. Arabica coffee, dark chocolate and the house's Thai tea accord on top; toasted almond, caramelized milk and vanilla under them; sandalwood, tonka and benzoin at the base — a woody gourmand, an eau de parfum. She showed it beside Light of Bangkok at Esxence in June. Pre-orders are now open on the house's shop at €160 for 50 ml and €230 for 100 ml, shipping from 19 October. €15 more buys a presentation with two accord vials, a sachet of the mocha itself and a card Pissara has signed, while stocks last. Les Senteurs in London already has the 100 ml in its cart at £195.

Insomnia is Francesca Bianchi's woody floral for the hours when everyone else is asleep. It comes out of the years she held a day job and composed the house's first perfumes at night, and out of a smoky, blue-black eye make-up she calls a glamorous insomnia. Bergamot, black pepper and a mineral facet for tired eyes open it; ylang-ylang, jasmine and narcotic flowers, with a little indole, sit in the heart; sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, cypriol and tonka underneath. An extrait, composed by her as everything under her name is: €118 for 30 ml, €249 for 100 ml, and a 1.5 ml sample for €7. Pre-orders opened on her shop on 28 September and the first bottles ship this Thursday, 8 October. Perfume Lounge in Amsterdam is taking orders at the same prices, though its note list leaves out the narcotic flowers.

Twenty-five more arrivals below, and seven bottles back in stock.