A Malle, a Creed and two Amouage extraits, all in one week

The heaviest week of arrivals since I started this. Twenty-three of them, and six houses inside the first seven bottles.

Northern Love is Bruno Jovanovic for Frédéric Malle — an amber-woody built on a sandalwood he says he pushed until it turned "buttery, velvety, almost indulgent", €250 and €350. Now Smell This noticed how close it sits to the discontinued Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle and asked out loud whether this is that fragrance returning under another name; the house has not answered. Creed opened the same week with Iris Debonair, a fougère floral on iris pallida at $380 to $800, no perfumer named, which reached Singapore the day after launch and was down to a single bottle there.

Amouage released two extraits at once. Overture 41 and Decision 42 are the originals rebuilt at 41 and 42 per cent — the numbers are the concentrations, chosen fragrance by fragrance rather than to a house standard, which is the entire premise of the Exceptional Extraits. Annick Ménardo returned to her own Overture; Quentin Bisch darkened the lightning-struck juniper he wrote for Decision. €510 each, house boutiques and amouage.com only until international distributors get them on 1 October — though Dubai has had both since the sixth.

Bisch is having a week: he also composed Tobacco Carnaval for Maison Crivelli, a 32 per cent extrait in the Olfactory Mysteries line, where the house prints no pyramid at all and leaves you to name what you smell. €215 for 50 ml. Initio's Oud for Grace is the quiet one at €320 — oud bedded into sandalwood and cedar instead of pushed out in front, which is a departure for a collection built entirely around it.

And tomorrow, Vanilla Aube from Ormonde Jayne, £225 for 88 ml: the fourth corner of Four Corners of the Earth Reimagined, savoury rather than sweet — pistachio, cardamom and black pepper all arrive before any vanilla does. It is not quite new. The house sold this same juice from September 2025 as Vanilla Mistral and renamed it over a trademark without touching the formula. Perfumology is four days ahead of the release and still at the old address: the page under /vanilla-mistral now reads Vanilla Aube.

Sixteen more arrivals below, and ten price and stock moves under them.

One last thing, carried over from last month. Nicolaï said its eleven Dernière Chance fragrances would leave the Maison at the end of the summer. Summer has ended, and the only thing that has left is the page: the list came down this week, and all eleven are still on sale at their August prices. One format has genuinely gone — Eau d'Été's 30 ml, which has not come back — and the notice on each bottle now promises only that it will go "soon". All eleven stay on the Watch.